Happy as Pigs in Clover

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Potsdam Special – Speckers Landhaus

You can‘t deny the regal beauty of Potsdam and its historic buildings. Sadly, the food served therein all too often lacks that same noble flair. The proximity to the fascinating culinary scene in Berlin acts more as a drag than a boost, with many local gourmets quick to head to Potsdam‘s bigger neighbor for their foodie adventures. A resistance movement is afoot, though, with a handful of restaurateurs bucking the trend and cooking at a high level, right here and now.

Speckers Landhaus is located at the very hub of Potsdam‘s historicity. Schloss Sanssouci and the Ruinenberg, the Siedlung Alexandrowka, the New Garden and the Old City are all within walking distance. The well-restored fisherman‘s house was first built in 1645. The inside of the half-timbered structure radiates historical charm, but the kitchen run by Gottfried and Steffen Specker (one toque) isn‘t afraid to add modern innovations and international aromas to their classic fine dining menus. “While we‘re always looking for regional recipes, it‘s rarely an easy task around here. Berlin and Brandenburg don‘t really have their own classic cooking traditions,” says Gottfried Specker, the father.

The focus is primarily on products from Potsdam and its environs, such as Havelland vegetables, fish from the Havel and game from local hunters.

Speckers Landhaus is thus the perfect venue for the third Potsdam evening of the eat! berlin festival, presenting Brandenburg cuisine alongside two regional foodstuffs whose straightforward concept we find commendable. Since 2015, Axel Penndorf and Clemens Stromeyer from Potsdamer Sauenhain have been running a remarkable pig farm in the northern part of the city. The animals are kept in humane conditions in former wild fruit orchards, and spend their entire lives outdoors running around on ten hectares of space. The robust crossings between the Bentheim Black Pied and Pietrain breeds are free to eat whatever they can root from the fields, meadows and even neighboring farms. The animals are also slaughtered as stress-free as possible in a nearby butchery. The sustainability benefits consumers as well: the meat from these happy Potsdam pigs is known for its fantastic taste and perfect consistency, making it a favorite of star chefs and lay epicureans alike.

“The evening is an outstanding opportunity to show what a good kitchen can make from good products,” says Steffen Specker, who has put together a five-course menu with a strong regional concentration: The amuse-geule will be followed by a “Composition from the Pots-damer Sauenhain” menu, comprised of dishes such as “wild smoked salmon on potato sabayon,” “braised veal cheek with rehydrated grapes, Jerusalem artichoke and pepper jus” and a “pavé au chocolat with candied citrus and chocolate sorbet” as dessert.

To ensure a bit of perspective, we‘ve invited a winemaker from afar: Jürgen Stiegelmar from the tradition-rich Burgenland estate of the same name, presenting his distinctive, terroir-driven wines. Three generations of his family work at the estate. Industry experts gush in particular about the fantastic Chardonnay vineyards and the Ungerberg, home to the estate‘s Zweigelt. Doris and Josef Farthofer will then bring the evening to its delicious close, presenting a selection of their more than 30 organic, sustainably produced spirits from pears, plums and other fruit from Lower Austria‘s Mostviertel. Keep an eye out for their organic vodka and brilliant O‘Gin as well, both of which have won awards at international trade fairs.

  • Sa. 3.3.
  • 4-course menu with accompanying wines
  • Speckers Landhaus
  • Jägerallee 13 | 14469 Potsdam
  • Admission: 6:30 | Start: 7:00 pm
  • 99,-

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